THE BEST SKINCARE FOR YOUR SCALP

Most people spend plenty of time and money on hair products but forget that the scalp is skin – just like the skin on your face – and it needs its own skincare routine. Using the wrong shampoo or overloading the scalp with heavy ingredients can lead to irritation, flaking, and even weakened hair growth over time. The best scalp care focuses on gentle cleansing, maintaining the right pH balance, and avoiding ingredients that clog or 'suffocate' the skin. So let's explore what the scalp really needs, what it doesn’t, and how choosing the right products can completely change the health and appearance of your hair!

The scalp and the hair need very different products – this is the biggest challenge with obtaining a healthy scalp.

what your hair needs vs. what your scalp needs

Hair is made up of keratinised protein, which is the transformation of living cells into hardened, protective protein-formed structures. Once hair leaves the scalp, it is no longer living tissue. Because of this, it doesn’t respond to hydration the way skin does. Hair has an affinity to oils, not water, which is why nourishing oils and conditioning products help to soften, protect, and smooth the hair shaft.

Hair isn’t living tissue, so it doesn’t use water the way skin does. When water interacts with hair, it doesn’t “hydrate” it – instead, water slips under the cuticle layers, lifting and separating them. This can leave the hair more vulnerable to roughness and damage. What hair responds best to are oils and conditioners that smooth the cuticle and provide lasting protection.

The hair fibre does not use water the same way that the skin does: it repels it. Adding 'moisture' to the hair can actually compromise its health.

The scalp, however, is skin. Like the skin on your face or body, it needs to 'breathe' (or stay free from suffocating build-up), shed dead cells, and maintain its natural barrier. The scalp benefits from gentle cleansing to remove excess sebum, dust, debris, styling products that migrate upward, or even hairspray that may accidentally coat the skin. The goal is to remove what doesn’t belong without stripping away all the natural oils that protect the scalp.

If you'd like to learn more about the scalp microbiome – like what it is and why it's important, read [THIS] blog post.

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the importance of simple, effective shampoos

The best shampoos for scalp care are those that cleanse thoroughly – but don’t leave behind heavy residues. A natural shampoo should lift away build-up while leaving humectants and protective actives that support scalp health.

Examples of helpful natural ingredients that accomplish this, include:

• aloe vera water for soothing and hydration

• green tea extract for antioxidant support

• chamomile extract for calming sensitivity

• rosemary extract for stimulation and balance

• humectants like panthenol, allantoin, betaine, glycerine, propanediol, and other nature-derived ingredients you will find in your product's ingredient list but may not immediately recognize.

What the scalp doesn’t need are heavy silicones or conditioning agents built into shampoos. These can create a suffocating film, irritating the skin over time. Just as you wouldn’t apply conditioner to your face, you shouldn’t leave conditioner on your scalp.

ingredients that can irritate the scalp

Many mainstream shampoos are packed with ingredients that might leave your hair feeling silky but can create irritation or sensitivity on the scalp. Some of the most common culprits include:

• sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) – a harsh surfactant that can strip away too much natural oil. It may be used cautiously in formulations that are very well balanced with other cleansing ingredients to make it 'milder', but SLS itself is neither environmentally friendly nor gentle.
  

• cocamidopropyl betaine – a gentle cleansing ingredient, but can trigger allergic reactions in some people, so one to watch for if you struggle with itchiness and recurring dandruff
  

• methylisothiazolinone (MIT) and methylchloroisothiazolinone (CMIT) – preservatives often linked to irritation and contact dermatitis on the scalp (which are nowadays rarely used and banned in many countries)
  

• synthetic fragrances and dyes – common sources of scalp itchiness and redness.
  

• parabens – used as preservatives but can sometimes disrupt scalp balance
  

• conditioners of any kind – including 2-in-1 shampoos, cleansing conditioners, co-washes, leave-ins, etc. as conditioning ingredients can stick to the scalp forming a film and irritating it

ingredients that can cause build-up

Other ingredients may not necessarily be irritating to the scalp, but tend to coat it over time, clogging pores and suffocating skin:

• silicones (like dimethicone, amodimethicone, cyclopentasiloxane) – smooth hair temporarily but sit on the skin and are difficult to wash away

  
  

• petrolatum, petroleum-derived, and mineral oil (like polyquaterniums and PEG's) – heavy occlusives that prevent the scalp from breathing; plus they are not environmentally-friendly to manufacture or dispose of
  

• quaterniums and polyquaterniums – conditioning agents that create stubborn residue. Thankfully, there have been incredibly positive advancements in more 'green' conditioning options like the ones we choose in the OBLOOM hair products due to consumer demand
  

• synthetic polymers (like PVP in hairsprays) – build up layer by layer, leaving the scalp congested
  

• heavy butters and oils – shea, cocoa butter, coconut oil, and castor oil are some examples, and although they are wonderful natural ingredients, in all fairness they do require mentioning because they can be heavy and challenging to wash off the scalp, causing build up.
  

• conditioners – as previously mentioned
  

• film-formers – ingredients that are meant to form a film surrounding your hair, but just as they can travel down the hair strand, they can also travel up toward the scalp, causing irritation. These film-formers include: - dimethicone - cyclopentasiloxane - amodimethicone - polyquaternium-10 and -7 - PVP (polyvinylpyrrolidone) used in gels and hairsprays - petrolatum - mineral oil - behenamidopropyl dimethylamine - cetrimonium chloride There are also many natural and nature-derived ingredients that are commonly used as film-formers, for conditioning, frizz control, and styling. While not inherently "bad", they can irritate the scalp when layered repeatedly, such as when added to a leave-in conditioner, mousse or hair gel: - guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride - hydroxypropyl starch phosphate (starch commonly used for styling hold) - hydroxyethylcellulose (cellulose gum thickener and film-former) - pectin (plant-derived polysaccharide, forms a flexible film) - chitosan (from shellfish or fungi, used for styling and film-forming) - sodium alginate (from seaweed, forms a film when dry) - carrageenan (red algae extract, gives hold and slip) - xanthan gum (fermented polysaccharide, can leave a coating) - plant proteins (like hydrolyzed wheat, oat, soy, corn) – they can bond to the hair surface and build up with repeated use, although easier to remove build-up with gentle cleansers.

When these ingredients collect on the scalp, they can contribute to itchiness, dryness, or flaking – and in some cases may even worsen shedding. Often we mistake dandruff for product build-up, so it's also something to consider if you think you're struggling with this issue.

For more on dandruff and why it may not be going away, please have a read [HERE] – you're going to love this blog post too!

understanding pH and why it matters

pH is a measure of how acidic or alkaline something is, on a scale from 0 (acidic) to 14 (alkaline). Pure water sits in the middle at pH 7.

The pH scale is a way to measure how acidic or alkaline something is – from the foods we eat to the products we put on our skin and hair. This is the key to protecting our skin microbiome and to making our hair cuticle protected.

Your scalp, like the rest of your skin, is naturally acidic – closest to 5 - 5.5. This acidity helps protect the scalp’s microbiome (the community of protective bacteria and fungi that live on your skin) and keeps the barrier strong.

When shampoos are too alkaline, they can disrupt this balance, leading to dryness, irritation, or flaking. The hair cuticle also reacts to pH: in a more acidic environment it lies flat, which gives the hair smoothness and shine, while in alkaline conditions it lifts up, leaving the hair rougher and more vulnerable. This is why choosing shampoos and conditioners that respect natural pH is so important.

pH is one of the biggest differences between scalp care and hair care. The scalp thrives at a mildly acidic pH, while the hair itself benefits from an even more acidic environment (closest to pH 4) to smooth and protect the cuticle.

This is where leave-in conditioners shine. By delivering a slightly acidic environment and protective actives, a leave-in – such as my Hydrate & Shine leave-in conditioner – helps the hair look healthier, resist frizz, and remain strong against styling.

Hydrate & Shine

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why you should focus on cleansing the scalp

Watch this reel on Instagram to learn more.

I always suggest focusing your wash routine on cleansing the scalp, not the hair itself. As shampoo is rinsed out, it naturally flows down the hair shaft, removing light build-up along the way. For most people, this is enough to keep the lengths clean.

If you use multiple styling products – leave-in, then gel, then mousse, then oils – product build-up is inevitable. In this case, gently washing the hair lengths with shampoo once every couple of weeks is helpful, but it’s important to follow with a leave-in conditioner to restore smoothness and reduce frizz.

what to USE if you buy conventional shampoos

I don’t personally recommend supermarket or drugstore shampoos for long-term use because they are mass produced and use mostly synthetic ingredients; but, if you choose these types of products, stick with a clarifying formula or even a 'baby shampoo' type product. These are usually simpler in composition and less likely to overload your scalp with residues. After cleansing, always condition the hair lengths with a leave-in to maintain shine and protection.

the protective conditioner trick

One of my favourite tips is to apply a light conditioner or leave-in to your hair lengths before shampooing the scalp. This creates a protective barrier so the shampoo doesn’t over-strip the hair’s natural oils. Rinse it all out together, wash your scalp as usual, and you’ll notice your hair feels shinier, smoother, and less stressed.

SO... WHICH INGREDIENTS WILL HELP THE SCALP BE HEALTHIER?

While hair itself doesn’t “eat,” the scalp is living skin, and there are several natural or nature-derived, well-researched ingredients you can apply directly on your scalp to support scalp health, reduce inflammation, and promote a balanced microbiome.

Here’s a list of some well-supported options:

1. Aloe vera – Soothes irritation, hydrates the scalp, and supports barrier function. Studies show it can reduce redness and flaking in mild scalp inflammation.

2. Green tea extract (Camellia sinensis) – Rich in polyphenols and antioxidants, research shows can help calm inflammation and may support scalp microcirculation.

3. Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis) oil – Research suggests rosemary oil may improve scalp circulation and may support hair growth by keeping follicles healthy.

4. Niacinamide (vitamin B3, nature-derived in some formulations) – Research shows niacinamide helps strengthen the skin barrier, improves blood flow, and reduces inflammation.

5. Chamomile (Matricaria recutita) extract – Shown to have anti-inflammatory and soothing effects, reducing itchiness and redness.

6. Saw palmetto (Serenoa repens) extract – Shown in some studies to help reduce scalp DHT levels, which can support hair follicle health.

7. Tea tree oil (Melaleuca alternifolia) – Antimicrobial properties that can reduce fungal and bacterial overgrowth on the scalp; used in low concentrations.

9. Pumpkin seed oil – Contains zinc, fatty acids, and antioxidants that support scalp health and may help hair density.

It's important to note that, since the scalp is skin and skin grows from the inside of the body out, diet plays a crucial role in the healthy growth of a healthy scalp – which will in turn produce healthier hair. In previous blog posts (like [THIS ONE]) we have discussed how diet, stress and other lifestyle factors can have a big impact on the health of your scalp.

Have a look:

Bottom line?

The bottom line is that the best skincare for your scalp is going to be: "less is more" – focusing on cleansing the scalp gently, leaving nothing on it, and focusing on conditioning the hair strands themselves. Let the scalp look after itself and support the microbiota that naturally exists on the scalp.

By treating the scalp like skin (because it is) you’ll simplify your routine and keep both balanced. Cleanse the scalp, condition the hair, and protect your lengths – it really is that simple!

What about you – what are your biggests struggles? Is it more with your scalp or with your hair? Comment and let's chat about it – we're here to help!